Jane Bromet

On November 12, 1958, nearly a year and a half after planting his first piton, Warren Harding climbed to the summit of El Capitan, the legendary face of Yosemite, which he became the first to climb via the equally legendary Nose route. An extraordinary undertaking closer to a heavy Himalayan expedition than to rock climbing. Climbing mainly on weekends in the fall and spring with companions whose level of skill was of little importance to him, Warren Harding spent a total of 47 days (spread over 17 months) on the face. 675 pitons (including 125 expansion pitons) and several thousand hammer blows were necessary to build his legend, despite the displeasure of the "Christians of the valley," as he somewhat sardonically nicknamed Royal Robbins and his cronies, who swear by style.

In 1970, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell set out to climb Early Morning Light, better known as Dawn Wall, in Yosemite National Park. Arguably the most controversial climb in the park's history, due to multiple storms and a rescue attempt by the Yosemite Service. The climb thrust the event into the media spotlight, creating a controversy within the local climbing community. In this short documentary, Warren Harding himself recounts the climb.